Nyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakale yomwe ili pachiwonetsero chaposachedwa cha FIT ndi paradaiso padziko lapansi

Chikwangwani chikulengeza za chiwonetsero pa 27th Street ku Manhattan, komabe, ndi ochepa okha omwe amabwera ku FIT Museum omwe angakhale okonzekera zomwe zikuwayembekezera mu "Chosangalatsa: Rosa mu Mafashoni."
"Wokongola: A Rose mu Fashoni" ndi chiwonetsero choyamba kutsekera kwa bungweli. Chiwonetserocho chidzatsegulidwa kwaulere pa Ogasiti 6 ndipo chikhala mpaka Novembala 12.
Chizindikiro chakhoma mpaka pansi mnyumba yolandirira chimakongoletsedwa ndi zimayambira ndipo chimazungulira chithunzi chachikulu cha chimodzi mwazinthu zoposa 130 zomwe zawonetsedwa pazaka mazana atatu-V. Buso stilettos-ndi mipesa yolumikizidwa pakhomo lolowera chiwonetserocho Masitepe opapatiza amatanthauza kukongola kwake ndikuwonekera, koma kuti athokoze zolinga zamaphunziro za bungwe lake lachilendo, ayenera kuyenda.
Chiwonetserocho chagawika m'magulu awiri. Choyambirira, mawonekedwe okumbutsa bwalo lotsekedwa, akuwonetsa zipewa zodzaza ndi maluwa kuchokera kuma milliners apadziko lonse lapansi ndi makampani opanga mafashoni pazoyimira zazitali zooneka ngati tsinde, ndikupangitsa kuti zinthu ziziyenda bwino pansi pounikira kwamkati Munda wamkati. Malinga ndi nyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakale, nyumbayi imaphatikizaponso zithunzi zoposa 75 zoyambirira za anthu ovala maluwa kuyambira m'ma 1850 mpaka 1920. Tsamba la chiwonetserochi likuti "kujambula zithunzi zapa studio komanso zamasewera kumayamba kupezeka mosavuta."
Zithunzi zazikuluzikulu zimatenga kudzoza kwa duwa lofananako kupita kumalo atsopano m'malo olimapo. Makomawo adakongoletsedwa ndi maluwa ofewa, nyimbo zakumbuyo zimawapatsa ulemu, ndipo mseu wapanjira umazunguliridwa ndi mitengo yazomera. Mbali yochititsa chidwi kwambiri pazithunzizi ndi njira yachilendo yowonetsera zinthu. Sizinapangidwe motsatira nthawi. M'malo mwake, magawo omwe amapangidwa ndi mitundu yofiira, yapinki yoyera ndi yoyera, yakuda ndi enawo "osakanikirana" -ndipo matanthauzo ake achikhalidwe amafotokozedwa mwatsatanetsatane kudzera pazikwangwani zambiri zaziwonetsero.
Kumlingo wina, mzimu wachionetserocho wokha uli ngati duwa. Ngati zinthu zomwe zikuwonetsedwa mosiyanasiyana modabwitsa ndi maluwa, ndiye kuti zinthu zidziwitso zowazungulira ngati zimayambira zimapereka ntchito zofunikira poulula mbiri yakukhalako kwawo komanso zolinga za wopanga amene adazipanga.
Chimodzi mwazizindikiro zoyambirira kuwonekera mchionetserochi chikuwulula momwe chimagwiritsira ntchito chizindikiro cha duwa ngati mandala owunika ndikudzudzula anthu. Chizindikirocho chimalongosola kusalinganika kwamakampani opanga maluwa omwe anali odziwika m'mizinda yayikulu yamafashoni kuyambira zaka za m'ma 1860 mpaka koyambirira kwa 1960. Ku Paris, iyi ndi bizinesi yamaluso kudzera pakuphunzira ntchito, koma ku New York ndi London, zinthu zomwezo zimapangidwa konsekonse ndi akulu ndi ana pansi pa thukuta. Izi zimakhudzidwa ndi utoto wa poizoni, utsi wotenthetsera, komanso kuwala kosakwanira.
Nthawi zamakono zitha kukhala zosiyana, koma mavuto azachuma ndi chilengedwe pakupanga zovala za ogula alipobe.
Gawo lirilonse lokhala ndi utoto lazithunzi zachiwiri limakhazikitsidwa ndi zolinga zaubongo zoyambirira. Tsamba la nyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakale limanena kuti magawo awiri oyamba amakhala achikhalidwe chokhudzana ndi ukazi. Chofiira chimagwirizana ndi "chikondi, chilakolako ndi kudzipereka", pamene pinki yoyera ndi yotumbululuka ikuimira "mwambo wokhwima-kuyambira kubadwa mpaka ukwati" ndi "kutaya unamwali ndi imfa".
M'makampani omwe mwamwambo amawawona azimayi ngati ogula makamaka koma omwe apamwamba amakhala olamulidwa ndi azungu, magwiridwe antchito achikazi ndi osangalatsa. Nyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakale yasankha kupeza ntchito yatsopano ya Ninomiya Noir Kei Ninomiya, yemwe zovala zake zapamwamba zayerekezeredwa ndi maluwa ambiri, ndikuwonjezera lingaliro latsopano pazokambirana. Zida zodula laser za Ninomiya zimapachikidwa mwaluso pa lamba wachikopa ku la Mad Max, ndikuwonjezera kulimba mtima komanso kotsogola. Webusayiti ya nyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakale imati "pewani malingaliro aliwonse osalimba omwe angakhale okhudzana ndi maluwa kapena azimayi."
Gawo lofiira lidatenganso nawo gawo pamitundu ina yandale, kuphatikiza diresi la Prabal Gurung wokhala ndi lamba, ndikufunsa kuti "Ndani akhale waku America?" Kuchokera pawonetsero lake la masika la 2020. Poganizira kuti Gurung adavomereza zovutazi mutu wa Met Gala wa 2021 "In America" ​​usanalengezedwe, zikuwoneka ngati zabwino kuti ntchito yake idawoneka pa carpet yofiira ndipo akuwonetsedwa pachiwonetsero "In" ku Anna Wintour Costume Center. . United States: Dikishonale Yapamwamba. ”
Gawo lakuda limasakanikirana ndi kukongola kwachikale komanso gulu lokoma la Gothic, pomwe gawo losakanikiralo limatsimikiziranso chiwonetserochi pa jenda posonyeza maluwa amfashoni achimuna komanso osalowerera ndale.
Wopanga zodziyimira pawokha ku New York a Neil Grotzinger adawonetsa ntchito zomwe zidawonetsa kuti amakana umuna woopsa komanso kuwononga zolaula, kugwiritsa ntchito zida zachikazi zachikazi komanso kugwiritsa ntchito kuwonekera poyera ndale. Tsamba la nyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakale limanena kuti zomwe adatolera "zimasanthula malingaliro azamuna, queerness, mphamvu, komanso kugonana".
Maudindo a amuna ndi akazi, monga maluwa opangira, amadzitamandira ndi chinyengo cha chilengedwe, kubisala kuyesetsa ndi cholinga chakumanga ndi kukonza kwawo. Komabe, pomwe ufulu wa anthu wamba ochita zachiwerewere komanso omwe si amuna kapena akazi umapitilirabe kuukira, chidwi chachikulu cha mafashoni mwa hermaphrodite pamapeto pake chimakhala chobwezera, "chachilendo" chosangalatsa kwa voyeuristic, kapena chizindikiro cha maloto. Dziwani kuti munthu woperewera angathe kufotokoza bwinobwino mosangalala kuti dziko lake likuyandikira zenizeni.
Pomaliza, chifukwa chotenga nawo mbali akatswiri atatu odziwa za mafashoni, "Oledzera: The Rose in Fashion" adavomereza kuwunika kwamaphunziro: MFIT Director ndi Chief Curator Valerie Steel ndi London School of Fashion Professor Amy de Co-curator waku la Haye ndi Coron Hill, woyang'anira MFIT. Chiwonetserochi chikuyenda limodzi ndi semina yomwe idachitika pa Epulo 30. Ili ndi zokambirana zisanu, zomwe zitha kuwonetsedwa pa TV ya YouTube ya MFIT, komanso buku lodziwika ndi de la Haye lofalitsidwa ndi Yale University Press.
Anthu aku New York sayenera kudzilanda okha mwayi wochitira umboni, makamaka ophunzira a Baruch, MFIT imangoyenda mphindi 15 kuchokera ku sukulu.


Post nthawi: Oct-13-2021

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